Community, Samba & 90,000 Voices: Samantha Mortner Flores on Rio Carnival

Sam's Story

I am a Londoner born and bred, originally from Camden town, so a world away from Rio and the Carnival, and I hadn't had much exposure to it. I knew it was something that happened, but it wasn't something that I particularly put much thought into, nor Rio de Janeiro or Brazil as a whole. They were just somewhere interesting on the other side of the world - until I went on holiday to Rio with a friend of mine about 15 years ago now. Within 24 hours of arriving in Rio, I knew I'd found my home. I knew I was going to go and live in this city.

Within 24 hours of arriving in Rio, I knew I'd found my home.
I knew I was going to go and live in this city.

It was literally love at first sight with Rio. It's an unbelievable city and unlike any other that I've ever been to, just in terms of the visuals alone! You have the beautiful beaches, the largest urban rainforest in the world, waterfalls, lakes… and this is literally within the city. From my house, I can walk five minutes to many of these places. So it's really unusual in that sense, and it's just got an energy that I find hard to find elsewhere in the world.

 

 

It's got an amazing vibe to it that obviously culminates a lot in Carnival. When I first visited Rio I was taken to a samba school on that first trip, and I walked through the doors, not really knowing what to expect, and was just blown away by what I was seeing in front of me; it was this enormous hall filled with amazing drummers, people dancing, I'm boiling hot, the vibe is incredible, and then out comes what's called the Passistas, which are the official dancers for the school. And I was just like, “Oh my God a group of goddesses have just stepped onto the stage”, basically, mouth agog. These powerful women, gorgeous, just completely comfortable with their bodies, amazing dancers… and the rhythm. I was like, “I don't know what's going on here, but I know I want to get involved”. So that was my first experience. It was just literally mouth to the floor. I loved it and got the bug from there.

So that was my first involvement with Carnival and Rio, and within a year, I left my life in London. I used to work as a PR - director of a PR agency for entertainment, TV, music - in London, and upsticked and moved to Brazil, to Rio, without any Portuguese. That was 15 years ago, and I've been here ever since.

These powerful women, gorgeous, just completely comfortable with their
bodies, amazing dancers… and the rhythm. I was like, “I don't know
what's going on here, but I know I want to get involved”.

When I moved here, I knew that there were two really vital things that I'd need to survive. One obviously being Portuguese, because you need it to survive here, and the other one was samba - because I decided that that was something very necessary that I had to learn!

So I made it my mission when I first arrived here to learn samba and to learn Portuguese. I actually worked at an NGO teaching English in one of the favelas here called Rocinha, and one of my students was a Passista, an official dancer for the samba school. She wanted to know how to give a lesson in English and I wanted to learn to samba, so we made a deal and she taught me to samba, but she had to do it all in English. That was my first foray in learning how to samba.

A Carioca's Perspective on Rio Carnival

Carnival is made up of many elements, from street parties to Garla balls, and to, obviously for me, the pinnacle, which is of course the parades. The parades have a long history. They've been going for over a hundred years, and they're a massive part of the genetic makeup of this city. 

Thousands of people are involved across the city; each samba school competes in the parade and usually represent a neighbourhood generally within one of the favelas, and it's a massive part of their identity. The samba schools have supporters in the same way as you have for football teams, you know, they are your school, and you will support them in the same way as crazy fans will support their football teams! So each school will have a massive amount of support from within their community.

 

 

The parade you see, you know, two days of competition, is one year in the making. One finishes and the next one begins! So obviously you see the finished product for an hour, but it literally takes a year to put all that together with a cast of thousands. You will have the phase where they'll pick the theme for that year. Each school will have a theme and everything will run to that story. You’ll then have to pick the music, which is another phase. You then start creating the costumes, the floats, everyone has to start rehearsing. So it’s a massive undertaking and essentially a huge moving show with 5,000 people appearing per samba school.

So this build-up of all of these different elements, of so many people working together for this one hour of presenting, I mean, the emotion when you come through to come down the Avenida (the Avenida is where they perform the parade) - and there's 90,000, people, it's like a football stadium. Out rolls the flags for your samba school and the people are going crazy and they're singing along. It's really emotional and I cry all the time. I mean, Brazilians are quite emotional anyway, they're not known for their stiff upper lip, so I’m often blubbering my way down there and it's just an unbelievable experience. It's not just about you and your samba school, but the feedback you get from the crowd as you go down, and it's really, really special.

Each of the samba schools will perform over two nights. It's highs and lows, and things go wrong and it's very dramatic. The cars break down, floats break down, costumes go wrong, but it’s about the highs, the lows, the tears, the tantrums and tiaras. It's an unbelievable experience and just very emotional. And then, of course, you get the result, then phase three, then they'll pick the winners and the winners will perform on the Saturday night afterwards for the champions parade, the top six schools’ performance.

So this build-up of all of these different elements, of so many people working together for this one hour of presenting, I mean, the emotion… as you come around the corner, and there's 90,000, people, it's like a football stadium. Out rolls the flags for your samba school and the people are going crazy and they're singing along… it's just an unbelievable experience.

 

Tears, Tantrums and Unbridled Joy: A Sparkling Rio Carnival Debut

I'd been dedicating myself to samba and I was obviously pretty sold on the whole thing, and a friend of mine phoned me one day and said, “How would you like to perform in one of the parades?” Obviously, I didn't take long to respond, once I'd stopped squealing.

She invited me to a friend’s, someone she knew at the samba school, for me to perform on one of the floats. I was a big yellow bird, not Sesame Street style, but a yellow bird. I had big yellow feathers and a yellow sparkly bikini! Trying it on for the first time was quite a surreal experience already, and then the first parade and the emotion is just unbelievable. You’re shaking beforehand and everybody is so highly charged. They have to basically place you onto the floats, obviously before you come around the corner and onto the actual Avenida, so you're going to be there a couple of hours before everybody gets ready and gets onto the float. So, everyone's singing and getting themselves into the mood!

The emotion is just unbelievable. You’re shaking beforehand and
everybody is so highly charged.

As you're getting yourselves ready and you're all dressed up in these unbelievable costumes, there are some moments where, for instance, when you're getting onto the floats: it's not a case of them having a truck that lifts you up and places you onto the top, it's ladders. It’s a mixture of ladders and high heels - which is interesting! I was literally at the very top of the float, like the cherry on the cake, and as we came around the corner, as I said, this is a moment where you see 90,000 people in front of you and is just… it's mind-blowing.

I was with that same samba school and I paraded with another school the following year, which is my present school in Tijuca which I've been operating with since 2014. I started off on top of the float and made my way down, and now I dance as “musa”, the muse, for my samba school, which basically means I dance in front of the float leading it, I'm in front of a float the "abre-alas", which is the first one out. So that's where I trot out shaking my feathers.

It's been quite a journey, and not really what I expected when I moved here and decided I need to learn samba, but it's so much fun and it's so emotional and every time I take a friend or whoever it will be, everyone is so blown away by it. You just become part of something that's so much bigger. Even people who maybe are a little hesitant or shy at the start of the experience - I had someone who was parading with us last year and he was just a little bit shy, an older gentleman, but by the end of the parade he was literally blowing kisses to everyone as he went past, waving, he had roses that he was throwing all the ladies - he had an absolute blast! You get this reaction from the crowd, and you can't stay still in that kind of situation.

 

 

Do-It-Yourself vs a Guided Rio Carnival Experience

Going on your own and exploring on your own is always an interesting way to know any city and I fully support that. However, when it comes to Rio Carnival, things are a little more complex! The reason why we help people do this, and how we can, is I have 10 years of experience working with the samba schools. They know me, I know them, and we have access to getting people in positions on the float for this whole experience.

If you were to arrive here on your own, you wouldn't be able to just walk up to a samba school and say, “Hello,” “Good afternoon,” “Can I be in your parade?” Unfortunately, it can't work like that, principally because they don't speak English. It's essentially an agreement with these schools that I'm going to make sure that the people who come with us are going to do that part too, because the question is not just about what the school can do for you: you're there to perform with the samba schools! So you have certain commitments that you're making. That's why we make sure every detail for you guys is looked after. The costume will be taken to you at the hotel and the adjustments will be made, we'll brief you on what's going on because this is - can you imagine if there's 5,000 people, none of them speaking English - a situation where you need to find where you need to go and know what you need to do.

So it can be quite intimidating to try and do that on your own, even if you could manage to get a costume. There are a lot of elements and logistics involved which we will look after for you, from making sure it's a private car that takes you to exactly the right spot for your samba school, ‘cause there's lots of places and lots of people, to making sure that there's a host by your side at all times, and that there's nobody shouting in Portuguese and you don't know what's going on. The whole point is to make the experience as fun and enjoyable as possible, and that's difficult if you haven't got someone with a lot of experience showing you where to go, when to go, getting up onto the float etc. Even at the other end, when you get off the float, there'll be somebody there waiting for you.

So it's always fun to explore a city on your own, but for this particular experience, it probably wouldn't be that fun due to just the amount of logistics and the access you'd need, and the promises you'd need to make, because this is a competition! You need to realise it's an honour that you're being allowed into this samba school, and they're allowing you to be part of this experience. If you were to turn up, “Oops. I forgot my headpiece!”, you could lose points for that school, and can you imagine these people have worked all year round for perfect presentation and because I let somebody turn up without their headpiece, they lose points.

“You need to realise it's an honour that you're being allowed into this samba school, and they're allowing you to be part of this experience because it's a competition… It's a two-way street, you know, they're going to give you an amazing experience and you're going to give it all you got!”

So there's a lot of responsibility there for me and also for whoever agrees to do this! It's a two-way street, you know, they're going to give you an amazing experience and you're going to give it all you got! I will make sure that you turn up in every single feather that is necessary, because the point is, it's not just them, you are part of that samba school, and you're going to help them win, you know? And that's what's so amazing about the experience.

 

 

Another benefit to having this experience with someone like myself and Untold Story Travel is that you not only get to take part in the parade, but you're able to enjoy watching it too. Once you've made it down the Avenida, there'll be someone to take you straight to the camarote, which is the box, and you can spend the night there watching the show with food, an open bar and DJs between. They have shows, places for you to sit, and they serve food literally all night long. You can sit, drink, eat until six o'clock in the morning when the show is finished, and then we will have a private car to take you home. You will also have a host to make sure that you're well looked after there if you need anything. It's obviously amazing to perform, but you need a great spot to see the other schools performing as well - ‘cause it's pretty amazing!

 

A Rio Carnival for Everyone

When it comes to participating in the parade there's an age limitation of 14 years, but that doesn't mean that the kids can't have fun as well! So alongside the main parade, the next day they have what is called the junior league, which is basically a kids parade. It is probably the cutest thing you've ever seen in your life.

It's mini floats and mini costumes, and every element of the samba school is there from the drum section to the queen of the drum section, to the floats, to the “musas”, just everything really tiny and very, very cute. 

We offer drumming and dancing lessons for kids (and for adults, obviously!) which they love, and that then prepares them for performing in the kids’ parades.

 

It's mini floats and mini costumes, and every element of the samba school is there from the drum section to the queen of the drum section, to the floats, to the “musas”, just everything really tiny and very, very cute.

We get them on the little mini floats and in the little mini costumes, and the rest of the family will be able to watch from a special camerote designed for families, so they can spend the afternoon and evening there watching the other schools. There’s spaces to play, there's other kids, food and drinks and something for the adults too.

So we offer the same services as for adults. We get them down there, we get the kids ready in their costumes, we explain everything, and they have a host which looks after them so mum and dad know they're not just being left on the parade! And then they'll be able to watch from the sidelines in the box. So it's a really good fun family version of the parade, and everybody gets to have a go.

There's also kids themed blocos (street parties). We can also provide a list of them, and they’re so much calmer than the crazy street parties you see on the photos. It's designed for children; there's kids entertainment, there’s fancy dress, which is always fun, and they're obviously much earlier during the day.

People think of Rio Carnival as being this crazy debauched big party, but there really is something for everyone, and a Rio Carnival for families.

 

 

On the Misconceptions of Rio Carnival and Non-Negotiable Enthusiasm

When I talk to people about this, they say, “Oh, I couldn't possibly do this,” because either a) “I've got two left feet, no dancing skills whatsoever,” or b) “I don’t have the body of an Adonis,” or some kind of greek goddess, and that is so not what Carnival is all about. That’s definitely one of the biggest misconceptions, ‘cause they see the girls in their bikinis with worked-out bodies, sambaing, but that’s just one element of the school. The school is made up as I said of 5,000 people who are part of that community and that samba school. It's not perfect samba unless you're in the section of the school that’s for the dancers. Nobody expects perfect samba - no one even expects samba!

Perfect samba steps, a six-pack, legs like a Brazilian supermodel, it's just not required. That, I think, is one of the biggest misconceptions. You need to bring the passion. That’s all you need to bring.

What you do need to bring to this, and this is not negotiable, is enthusiasm. You can literally have two left feet and all they want to see is wiggling - you don't even have to have rhythm! But you do have to have enthusiasm, and what you need to do is sing. They want to see you singing along and moving, and that's all that's really required of you. So perfect samba steps, a six-pack, legs like a Brazilian supermodel, it's just not required. That I think is one of the biggest misconceptions. You need to bring the passion. That’s all you need to bring.

There’s a misconception that it's not a competition. People think it's a show. A lot of people don't realise how massively competitive this is and how it has to be perfect for the judges. People think, “I'll just rock up, get myself a costume and go and walk in the parade,” and don't realise the logistics involved, the complexity and what you're getting yourself in for! And that's why it's so important for you to know a bit of background.

What you do need to bring to this, and this is not negotiable, is enthusiasm.

When our guests come to parade, even before they arrive in Rio, we're already in contact, we're sending the music translated into English so that they can understand what we're talking about, what's going on, and that way you can feel connected to it. You may not speak Portuguese, but you know what's going on. No one's expecting you to learn the perfect word-for-word Portuguese version of the song. The honest truth is there's 5,000 people singing. No one can hear you, BUT, you do have to open and close your mouth. If you lose the words, all you’ve got to do is say “cats and dogs and cats and dogs” or “rhubarb and rhubarb”, whatever it is, you know, you can stand there and sing, “I'm having a marvellous time,” “Isn't this fun!”, whatever it is, just open and close your mouth. So there's no pressure to learn, you can't be heard above the 5,000 other people singing along!

Insider Tips for Rio Carnival First Timers

For the parade itself, one thing I guess you have to be aware of is there's going to be a certain amount of stamina involved. It's roughly 40 minutes that you're going to be parading for. It's hot. This is Rio in the summer, and even before you get into the parade, there's probably two hours beforehand in the staging area getting everyone up into their costumes and in the right spot. It's about three hours on your feet, so you need to keep that in mind. Obviously, you're going to have to stay well hydrated with lots of water before, and no crazy nights out the night before! You're dedicating yourself to the school and you need to be able to give it your all. So you're going to have to keep your health in mind slightly because it's an undertaking. It's not five minutes on and off and you're done, so a little bit of pre-planning on your part to make sure you're hydrated and ready to go is something you might want to keep in mind for the big day.
 

Pure Elation: Life-Affirming Rio Carnival

As you finish the parade, there'll be one of our hosts waiting to make sure you get safely off the float, out of the de-staging area and down to where your box is.

That moment as they come off, the look in people's eyes, the elation, people are jumping around, hugging each other and hugging the people who have been on the float. There's people lining up to take photos with you, because obviously you look amazing in these costumes! Everyone always looks at me goes, “Oh my god, I feel like a superstar!”. And you know, they get really into it. It's not just the experience of parading itself, but that sense of elation, the sense of being part of a community and a school, having represented them. Everyone's shouting, and in this moment, they feel like a superstar. You get walked down to the box and everyone sees you coming over with your feathers, I mean, you're part of a show!

How often in your life are you going to come walking out in a full feathered headdress, some kind of sparkly number and god knows what, and have a queue of people waiting to take their photos with you?

I think it's quite life-affirming and a completely different experience to anything they've ever experienced before. And as I said, even people who start at the beginning completely shy and not too sure, by the end are blowing kisses, wiggling down to the ground and high-kicking! The energy is contagious.

How often in your life are you going to come walking out in a full feathered headdress, some kind of sparkly number and god knows what, and have a queue of people waiting to take their photos with you?

We once had a couple who came to do it. The husband, he was a quite straight-up guy, worked in finance and wasn’t sure if this was really his thing, but his wife was absolutely adamant, she was dying to do it. So he said alright, I'll come along for the ride. Cut to, he's wearing a pair of blue sequined leggings with his top off covered in blue glitter, and he literally appeared on Globo TV! They did an extreme close-up of him in slow motion on the top of the float, where he's waving his arms in the air, wiggling down to the ground - I'd never seen anything like it! He appeared on national TV in blue sequin, leggings, and body glitter. And we're not talking a six-pack ripped guy. He's just an English bloke who just went for it, and it was absolutely brilliant.

 

If Sam's inspired you to get involved and have your own 'superstar' moment, get in touch with Untold Story Travel and start planning this experience of a lifetime.